Whilst plumbing and installation is best left to a qualified professional, if you’re competent at DIY, you can still save time and money by fitting your new bath.
There are a great variety of baths on the market for you to choose from, with different styles, shapes, and purposes. For example:
You can find fitting instructions for other bathroom products by clicking the links below:
- How to fit an acrylic bath panel
- How to fit a wooden bath panel
- How to fit a bath screen
- How to fit a bath mixer tap
For the purposes of this how to guide, we’ll be looking at fitting a straight bath.
What is a straight bath?
A straight bath is one of the most common baths you’ll find in the UK. Usually constructed out of acrylic or sometimes steel, it sits on legs which are then concealed by bath panels. Taps are found either at one end (in a single ended bath) or on one side (in a double ended bath).
The Kensington is a good example of straight, single ended bath
Before you do anything
Always unpack your bath immediately after delivery. Check for any damage or faults as it’s better to find them now, rather than during installation.
Always turn off your water at the mains before attempting any DIY in the bathroom.
Tools you’ll need:
- Adjustable wrench
- Electric drill
- Hack saw
- Pipe cutter
- Sealant gun
- Spirit level
- Standard screwdrivers
- Tape measure
Check you have the following:
Usually supplied with bath:
- Bath tub
- Adjustable feet
- Handles (if provided)
May need to buy separately:
- Bath waste
Will need to buy separately:
Time to complete:
Fitting your straight bath
At VictoriaPlum.com, you’ll find most of our straight baths are crafted from high quality, acrylic that’s warm to the touch, and has excellent impact and scratch-resistance for superb durability.
The following instructions are for fitting a straight bath.
Place your bath on a level surface and use the instructions which came with it to prepare.
If the bath has handles, fit them now.
Fit the waste and overflow.
Fit the tap(s).
Take a couple of wooden battens up to 60mm wide and stand the bath on these to help protect your floor. If laid on floorboards, these should be at 90 degrees to the joists.
Once you have done this, check that the bath is level using your spirit level. If not, adjust the feet until level.
Using your pencil, mark holes on the wall for fixing plates or brackets.
Attach the waste trap and make a note of any adjustments that will be required to the waste pipe.
Attach flexible tap tails and, using your pencil, mark off where the water pipes may need to be cut.
Using your pencil again, mark on the floor where the wooden supports need to go
Remove the bath and screw the wooden supports into place.
Using your electric drill, drill pilot holes for the wall fixing bracket and add rawl plugs.
Adjust the waste pipe and cut water pipes if required.
Make sure the tap and handle connections are secure. Tighten up the flexible tap tails.
If there is a protective film on the edge(s) of the bath that will go against the wall, peel it back.
Put the bath back into position. Use your spirit level again to check it’s level.
Using screwdrivers, screw the feet to the floor and the fixing brackets to the wall.
Attach the waste to the waste pipe and outlet.
Attach the flexible tap tails to the water pipes. Check they’re not twisted or bent.
Turn the water back on at the mains. Check for leaks by closing the waste and running a bath.
Handy hint: Fill the bath with water before sealing it. The weight of the water will help create a good watertight seal.
Seal round the edges of the bath with silicone sealant.
Congratulations! You’ve now fitted your straight bath.
Whilst DIY can be a good way to save time and money, you should always hire a qualified professional to plumb and install your products. The instructions above are simply a guide to fitting your new bath and shouldn’t be used to attempt full plumbing and installation.